I feel very lucky to have been to El Tajín, deep in the jungle and far from the usual tourist routes. Kelly and I were there in 2003.

We came up El Tajín on a misty winter day, a Monday morning when very few tourists were about:

vista-with-people

Its heyday was probably from about 800 AD to 1200 AD, and it likely had a population of something like 25,000 people.

The carvings were wonderful:

bas-relief-face2

To read more about El Tajín, here are three pages I wrote when we were there:

http://www.mexico-with-heart.com/2003/el-tajin/

http://www.mexico-with-heart.com/2003/more-about-el-tajin/

http://www.mexico-with-heart.com/2003/talking-with-totonacs-at-el-tajin/

Some friends of ours happened to go there on the spring equinox, and they had a completely different experience. The equinox is a very big deal here, going back to ancient times, and El Tajín was full of people, all celebrating and enjoying.  Our friends had a great time, but I’m glad I went when it was quiet.